Well its that time of year again, the weather is cooling off, the leaves are about to turn, and Chloe is back in St Louis. We decided to meet Lindsay's mom in Michigan City since it seems to be about the halfway point and they have an excellent outlet mall. The night before we were to leave I found out about the John Dillinger Museum in Hammond, Indiana, about 30 miles from Michigan City. Lindsay said she was interested and our tour of Indiana was ready to begin. I'd wanted to visit some other Dillinger sites for some time, ever since visiting the Biograph theater in Chicago (Where Dillinger was slain by agents from the Bureau of Investigation). Leaving St Louis around 9 or 10 o'clock the following morning we didn't end up getting to Hammond until about three in the afternoon. I figured museums don't close until 4 or 5 so we should have plenty of time right...wrong. We were informed upon entering that while the welcome center is open till 5 the museum had just started its winter hours and had closed at 3. It was 3:05 and the disappointment must have shown on my face because the lady running the museum and gift shop reopened the whole thing just for us.
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Lindsay doing her best Dillinger |
This place was awesome and had everything from his baseball cleats to the pants he died in. The museum goes through Dillinger's life in a chronological fashion. On what was supposedly his first robbery his friend actually drove off in the get-away car without him and he ended up implicating himself in the crime when he asked if the grocery store owner was okay before knowledge of the robbery had gotten out. His father convinced him to confess, while his friend, Ed Singleton plead not-guilty. Dillinger ended up at Indiana State Prison in Michigan City for eight and a half years. While in prison he met lots of like-minded individuals and when he got out he had the know-how and friends to start robbing banks. He broke his gang out by having rifles smuggled to them in the prison. When Dillinger needed something he took it. If it was guns, he'd rob the local police, money, its pretty obvious where that came from.
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Guns taken from Auburn and Peru Police Departments |
Dillinger robbed at least 14 banks between June of 1933 and May of 1934. His gang killed 10 and wounded another 7 during this terror spree. Rounded up in Tuscon in January of 1934 the entire gang was extradited to Ohio and Indiana for various crimes. Dillinger ended up at the Lake County Jail in Crown Point, Indiana. This jail was supposed to be inescapable, they had him in a fourth floor cell with extra guards, however he did just that. John managed to escape, using a wooden gun made out of a broom handle and some shoe polish he locked all his jailers up and made off in the sheriff's car.
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wooden gun |
He relieved the police station in Warsaw, Indiana of all its weapons, picked up his friend John Hamilton, and made a run for everyone's favorite vacation spot...Sault Ste Marie, MI. Apparently Hamilton's sister lived on West 14th St in the Sault. The house isn't there any more (I've looked), however Lindsay's mom said she remembers her mother talking about how everyone steered clear of the Algonquin part of town while he was there. Federal agents followed the men there and they left for Wisconsin. Somewhere along the line, Dillinger's new gang was joined by none other than "Baby Face" Nelson. While there, they were involved in a shootout at the Little Bohemia Lodge in Manitowish Waters and managed to escape again. They headed first to Minnesota, where Hamilton was killed by police and then to Chicago. Dillinger met his end on July 22nd 1934 after being turned in by the famous "lady in red."
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"Death Trousers," I need these for my wall, Jason procure them. |
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When we were done at the museum we headed to Michigan City.
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"Its headed straight for us" |
Imagine my surprise as I switched lanes and realized that there was a semi headed in the wrong direction on the highway straight toward us. It was just one truck being towed by another but the first glance was deceiving. Lindsay had us staying in the Red Roof Inn which apparently is the third best rated hotel in Michigan City. I'm thinking this says something about Michigan City but I'm not sure what. Anyways, the rooms were clean, the hotel was quiet, and they allowed pets so we were happy. We went to dinner at Bob Evans and then went to the mall for a couple of hours. That night I hatched my plan for the following day and the rest of our Dillinger tour. Here's how Saturday went....
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Dillinger in the morgue |
Stop #1
Michigan City, Indiana
The first stop was the Indiana State Prison in Michigan City. This is the prison that Dillinger spent eight and a half years in and where he learned to rob banks. After his release he had rifle's smuggled into his friend's cells, allowing Harry Pierpont, Russell "Boobie" Clark, Charles Makley, Edward Shouse Jr, Harry Copeland, James Clark, John Hamilton, and Walter Dietrich all to escape and form his first gang. Two guards were killed during the escape. Dillinger was already back in jail in Lima, Ohio after robbing another bank. The gang showed up there, shot and beat the sheriff, and freed John. Getting a picture of the prison was hard. First I drove all the way around it, then somehow I managed to lose the prison entirely. This is hard to imagine since its humongous. The Indiana State Prison is still a working prison so there are signs posted all around it telling you not to stop. I did, just long enough to take these pictures out the window. On a side note this is also the only place in Indiana where the death penalty is carried out.
Stop #2
Crown Point, Indiana
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Crown Point Courthouse |
We actually had two stops planned for Crown Point. The first which was not actually a Dillinger stop was the courthouse. Because there was no waiting period, this was a popular place for people to get married in the 1920s, 30s, and 40s. Ronald Reagan was married to Jane Wyman here, Michael Jackson's parents were too. The building has been remodeled into shops and we stopped here and got Chloe some ice cream at Valentinos. Named after Rudolph Valentino the ice cream shop actually has his marriage license and certificate on display behind the register. After he was married in the courthouse supposedly Rudolph drove around it several times waving to his fans. We did the same thing not because people wanted to see us but because we were lost and looking for our next stop.
The next place we visited was the Crown Point Sheriff's house and jail. On March 3rd 1934, Dillinger supposedly escaped from using only a wooden gun to hold his jailers at bay until he could reach a real firearm. Dillinger locked everyone up, stole Sheriff Lillian Holley's car, and left for Chicago. (This website claims that Dillinger used a real gun and that the wooden gun was concocted by Dillinger's lawyer.
http://dillingerswomen.com/articles/crownpoint.html) The front part of the building is where the sheriff lived while the back part (visible in the picture) is the jail. The day we were there they were giving tours of the place however they did not take debit or credit cards. There was an ATM somewhere nearby but since they only tour the house (not the jail) and it was pouring down rain we opted not to go looking for it.
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Crown Point Jail |
Stop #3
Indianapolis, Indiana
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Current headstone |
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Original headstone |
After he was shot outside the Biograph Theater he was taken back to Indiana and interred at Crown Hill Cemetery. This is a huge old cemetery in what appears to be a rough area of Indianapolis. Curiously the Indianapolis Museum of Art is located nearby. There are many other famous people buried here including Benjamin Harrison (23rd president), Richard Gatling (inventor of the Gatling Gun), and Lilly Pharmaceutical's founder, Eli Lilly. We managed to take in Dillinger, Harrison, Thomas Marshall (Vice President under Woodrow Wilson), and Booth Tarkington (author). Dillinger's headstone was the most unassuming of the bunch, just a small marker with his name and birth/death years on it in the family plot. We had seen the original headstone at the museum in Hammond and learned that several have had to be replaced due to people chiseling away pieces of them to take home as souvenirs. This practice must still be popular since there was plenty of evidence of this on the current one. I read somewhere that his father had reinforced concrete poured over top of the coffin when he was buried, they must have been worried about people walking off with more than just the headstone. We definitely could have spent a whole day here if time allowed but we had to get back to St Louis and there was still one more stop planned.
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Benjamin Harrison |
Stop #4
Greencastle, Indiana
You would think that a finding what might be the only old bank building in a very tiny town wouldn't be that hard to do, but you would be wrong. This was supposed to be our fastest and final stop, but we ended up driving around for at least an hour to find it. On October 23rd 1933 the gang made its biggest haul by robbing the Central National Bank in Greencastle of $75,000. The guard had just gone downstairs to stoke the furnace, the gang walked in and robbed the bank, the whole thing was over before the guard came back and no shots were fired. I'm pretty sure that Dillinger knew where the bank was when he came to rob it, we weren't so lucky. We drove around Greencastle in 42 different directions, finally stopping at a gas station to ask for directions. The girl behind the counter didn't know where it was but knew it was somewhere near the court house. She gave us directions and told us that every year on the anniversary of the robbery the town has a festival or reenactments or something commemorating it. I thought it was kind of odd that the town would celebrate the robbery of a bank but then again, what the heck was I doing following a dead man all over Indiana. When we finally got there it turned out that the building is still a bank and you can see remnants of the old signs on the front of it. At one point it was the Central National Bank, then the First National Bank, and now it is an Old National Bank. I would have liked to go in but since it was a Saturday evening it was obviously closed. I took my pictures, got back in the car, and finally made it back to St Louis around 9PM, 36 hours after we left. On our way back my dad informed me that Greencastle's other claim to fame is Depauw University, alma mater of Dan Quayle.
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Chloe in the getaway car |